Expeditions
MAK has successfully completed the following mountaineering expeditions.
Expedition Details
Mt. Thelu (6000 Mtr.) & Koteswar (6061 Mtr.) Expedition, 1987.
Area : Gangotri Region, Garhwal Himalaya.
Members –
1. Shri Pralay Majumder (Leader), 2. Shri Asok Roy, 3. Shri Subrata Bhattacharjee, 4. Shri Sanjib Chkaraborty, 5. Shri Netai Das, 6. Dr. Kiriti Tarafdar and 7. Ms. Basanti Londhre.
The first expedition was organized in the month of May, 1987.
Commencement of road head – trek start from Gangotri of Uttarkashi District on 10/5/1987.
Number of camps en route to Base Camp : One transit camp at Bhojbas had been established.
Two more camps had been established before reaching summit of Mt. Thelu. Summit reached by 1. Shri Pralay Majumder, 2. Shri Subrata Bhattacharjee, 3. Shri Sanjib Chkaraborty, 4. Ms. Basanti Londhre and 5. Shri Prem Singh on 15/5/1987.
Mt. Koteswar (19880 ft.) summit reached by 1. Shri Pralay Majumder, 2. Shri Sanjib Chkaraborty, 3. Ms. Basanti Londhre and 4. Shri Prem Singh on 21/5/1987.
Gangstang (6162 Mtr.) Expedition, 1990.
Area : Lahul Region, Himachal Himalaya.
Members –
1. Shri Sourendra Banerjee (Leader), 2. Shri Asok Roy, 3. Shri Subrata Bhattacharjee, 4. Shri Sanjib Chakraborty, 5. Shri Basanta Singha Roy, 6. Shri Subhashis Chakraborty, 7. Shri Goutam Pal and 8. Shri Subhash Saha.
The 2nd expedition was organized in the month of July, 1990.
Commencement of trek from road head - trek start from Keylong (Lahul & Spiti District of Himachal Pradesh) on 21/7/1990.
Number of camps en route up to Base Camp. One transit camp at an altitude of 3810 Mtr. on a nice alpine medow beside Billing Nallah had been established in between Keylong and Base Camp (4480 Mtr.) near Gangstang Glacier.
Two more camps had been established before reaching summit of Mt. Gangstang. Summit reached by 1. Shri Basanta Singha Roy, 2. Shri Lebodram Thakur and 3. Shri Kurumchand Thakur on 28/7/1990.
Baljuri (5922 Mtr.)
Area : Kumaon Himalaya.
Members –
1. Shri Basanta Singha Roy (Leader), 2. Shri Asok Roy (Dy. Leader), 3. Shri Subrata Bhattacharjee, 4. Shri Sanjib Chakraborty, 5. Dr. Partha Protim Roy (Medical Officer), 6. Shri Subhashis Chakraborty, 7. Shri Goutam Pal, 9. Shri Debasish Roy, 9. Shri Raju Roy and 10. Shri Subhash Saha.
The third expedition was organized in the month of September, 1991.
Commencement of trek from road head - trek start from Soang (Bageswar District, Uttarakhand) on 18/9/1991.
Number of camps en route up to Base Camp. Three transit camps had been established to reach Base Camp. First camp at Loharkhet (1750 Mtr.) and stayed at PWD Bunglow, 2nd at Khati (2210 Mtr.) and stayed at Hotel and third camp at Dwali (2576 Mtr.) and here stayed at Nigam Bunglow. Base Camp (4120 Mtr.) established 1 k.m. ahead of Pindari Glacier on a beautiful meadow on the true right bank of Pindai river
Two more camps had been established before reaching summit Mt. Baljuri. Summit reached by 1. Shri Basanta Singha Roy, 2. Shri Asok Roy, 3. Shri Sanjib Chakraborty, 4. Shri Debasish Roy, 5. Shri Raju Roy, 6. Shri Subhas Saha, 7. Shri Subrata Bhattacharjee, 8. Shri Rup Singh and 9. Shri Gopal Singh on 25/9/1991 and 26/9/1991.
Un-named Peak (6352 Mtr. - Seta Glacier).
Area : Gangotri Glacier, Garhwal Himalaya.
Members –
1. Shri Basanta Singha Roy (Leader), 2. Shri Asok Roy (Dy. Leader), 3. Dr. Partha Protim Roy (Medical Officer), 4. Shri Raju Roy, 5. Shri Nirmal Mukherjee and 6. Shri Ajay Krishna Bhattacharjee.
The fourth expedition was organized in the month of August – September, 1992.
Commencement of trek from road head – Trek start from Gangotri (Uttarkashi District) on 21/8/1992.
Number of camps en route to Base Camp : One transit camp at Bhojbas had been established to reach Base Camp i.e. Nandanvan (4360 Mtr.).
4 more camps had been established before reaching summit Un-named peak. Summit reached by 1. Shri Basanta Singha Roy, and 2. Shri Rajbahadur Sahi on 01/9/1992.
Shrikailash (6932 Mtr.)
Area : Gangotri Glacier, Garhwal Himalaya.
Members –
1. Shri Basanta Singha Roy (Leader), 2. Shri Asok Roy (Dy. Leader), 3. Sanjib Chakraborty, 4. Shri Debasish Roy, 5. Shri Subhas Saha, 6. Shri Raju Roy, 7, Shri Nirmal Mukherjee, 8. Shri Ajay Krishna Bhattacharjee, and 9, Shri Swagatam Das.
The fifth expedition was organized in the month of September, 1993.
Commencement of trek from road head – Trek start from Gangotri (Uttarkashi District) on 05/9/1993.
Number of camps en route to Base Camp : One transit camp had been established at Bhojbas to reach Base Camp at Thelu Bamak (Raktvaran Glacier – 4527 Mtr.).
7 more camps had been established before reaching summit of Mt. Srikailash due to heavy fresh snowfall. Summit reached by 1. Shri Basanta Singha Roy, 2. Shri Rajbahadur Sahi and Dharamraj on 20/9/1993.
Tharkot (6099 Mtr.) & Bhanoti (5816 Mtr.)
Area : Kumaon Himalaya
Members –
1. Shri Basanta Singha Roy (Leader), 2. Shri Asok Roy (Dy. Leader), 3. Shri Subrata 
Bhattacharjee, 4. Shri Raju Roy, 5. Shri Nirmal Mukherjee and 6. Shri Swagatam Das.
The sixth expedition was organized in the month of August - September, 1994.
Commencement of trek from road head - trek start from Soang (Bageswar District, Uttarakhand) on 31/8/1994.
Number of camps en route up to Base Camp. Four transit camps had been established to reach Base Camp (Sukhram Cave). First camp at Loharkhet (1750 Mtr.) and stayed at PWD Bunglow, 2nd at Khati (2210 Mtr.) and stayed at PWD Bunglow, third camp at Jatoli Village (2576 Mtr.) and here stayed at Rup Singh’s house (Team’s Guide) and fourth camp at Sundardunga (3200 Mtr.) and here the team stayed at a temporary Hut. Base Camp (3965 Mtr.) reached on 04/9/1994.
Three more camps had been established before reaching summit of Tharkot. Summit reached by 1. Shri Basanta Singha Roy, 2. Shri Raju Roy, 3. Shri Swagatam Das, 4. Shri Rajbahadur Sahi and Shri Rup Singh on 12/9/1994.
Mt. Bhanoti summit reached by 1. Shri Asok Roy, 2. Shri Subrata Bhattacharjee, 3. Shri Nirmal Mukherjee and 4. Shri Rup Singh on 13/9/1994 from the same Camp – I of Tharkot peak.
CB – 11 (6045 Mtr.)
Area : Himachal Himalaya.
Members –
1. Shri Basanta Singha Roy (Leader), 2. Shri Asok Roy (Dy. Leader), 3. Shri Goutam Pal, 4. Shri Raja Roy and Shri Pal.
The seventh expedition was organized in the month of August – September, 1995.
Commencement of trek from road head - trek start from Batal of Kulu District of Himachal Pradesh on 25/8/1995.
Number of camps en route up to Base Camp. One transit camp had been established to reach Base Camp.
One more camp had been established before reaching summit of CB – 11. Summit reached by Shri Basanta Singha Roy, 2. Shri Somdeb Sharma and 3. Shri Tikamram Thakur on 28/7/1995.
Kamet – 7756 Mtr. (Third Highest Peak in India).
Area : Garhwal Himalaya.
Members –
1. Shri Basanta Singha Roy (Leader), 2. Shri Asok Roy (Dy. Leader), 3. Shri Subrata Bhattacharjee, 4. Dr. Partha Protim Roy (Medical Officer), 5. Shri Subhashis Chakraborty, 6. Shri Goutam Pal, 7. Shri Debasish Roy, 8. Ajay Krishna Bhattacharjee, 9. Goutam Pal (Junior), 10. Shri Dipen Samanta and 11. Shri Arupam Das.
The eighth expedition was organized in the month of September – October, 1996.
Commencement of trek from road head – trek started from Malari, Joshimath, Chamoli Distrist of Uttarakhand on 10/9/1996.
Number of camps en route up to Base Camp. Three transit camps had been established before reaching Base Camp.
5 more camps had been established but the team could not reached the summit due to blizzard. The team forced to abandon the expedition. They reached at an altitude of 6860 Mtr. on 3/10/1996.
Kamet – 7756 Mtr. (Third Highest Peak in India).
Area : Garhwal Himalaya.
Members –
1. Shri Basanta Singha Roy (Leader), 2. Shri Asok Roy (Dy. Leader), 3. Shri Subhashis Chakraborty, 4. Shri Tamal Bhattacharjee, 5. Shri Debasish Biswas and 6. Shri Sourav Sinchan Mondal.
The ninth expedition was organized in the month of May – June, 1997.
Commencement of trek from road head – trek started from Malari, Joshimath, Chamoli Distrist of Uttarakhand on 12/5/1997.
Number of camps en route up to Base Camp. Two transit camps had been established before reaching Base Camp.
6 more camps had been established before reaching summit of Mt. Kamet. Summit reached by 1. Shri Basanta Singha Roy, 2. Shri Debasish Biswas, 3. Shri Aung Tenzi Sherpa and 3. Shri Thupka Sherpa on 05/6/1997.
Choukhamba-I (7138 Mtr.)
Area : Garhwal Himalaya
Members –
1. Shri Basanta Singha Roy (Leader), 2. Shri Asok Roy (Dy. Leader), 3. Shri Ajay Krishna Bhattacharjee, 4. Shri Debasish Biswas, 5. Shri Sourav SinchanMondal, 6. Shri TamalBhattacharjee, 7. Shri Swarup Karfa, 8. Shri Bivas Sarkar and 9. Shri Jyotirmoy Sarkar.
The tenth expedition was organized in the month of August – September, 1998.
Commencement of trek from road head – trek started from Mana village, Badrinath, Joshimath, Chamoli Distrist of Uttarakhand on 19/8/1998.
Number of camps en route up to Base Camp. Two transit camps had been established before reaching Base Camp.
4 more camps were established before reaching summit of Mt. Chowkhamba – I. Summit reached by 1. Shri Basanta Singha Roy, 2. Shri Aung Tenzi Sherpa and 3. Shri Thendup Sherpa on 04/9/1998.
Bhrigupanth (6772 Mtr.)
Area : Garhwal Himalaya.
Members –
1. Shri Basanta Singha Roy (Leader), 2. Shri Asok Roy, 3. Shri Ajay Krishna Bhattacharjee, 4. Shri Subhasish Chakraborty, 5. Shri Bivas Sarkar, 6. Shri Chandan Banerjee, 7. Shri Bhupendranath Pal and 8. Shri Swarup Kharfa.
The eleventh expedition was organized in the month of May, 1999.
Commencement of trek from road head – trek started from Gangotri, Uttarkashi District, Uttarakhand on 05/5/1999.
Number of camps en route up to Base Camp. One transit camp had been established between Bhojkharak and Kedarkharak before reaching Base Camp i.e. Kedartal.
4 more camps were established before reaching summit of Mt. Bhrigupanth. Summit reached by 1. Shri Basanta Singha Roy, 2. Shri Swarup Kharfa, 3. Shri Pemba Sherpa and 4. Shri Thendup Sherpa on 20/5/1999.
Nandakot (6861 Mtr.)
Area : Garhwal Himalaya.
Members -
1. Shri Basanta Singha Roy (Leader), 2. Shri Subrata Brahma, 3. Shri Debasish Biswas, 4. Shri Sourav Sinchan Mondal, 5. Shri Jyotirmoy Sarkar, 6. Shri Subhasish Chakraborty and 7. Shri Bivas Sarkar.
The twelfth expedition was organized in the month of October, 2001.
Commencement of trek from road head – trek started from Munsiary, District Pithgarh, Uttarakhand on 07/10/2000.
Number of camps en route up to Base Camp: Five transit camps had been established before reaching Base Camp.
2 more camps had been established to reach summit of Mt. Nandakot. But the team could not reached the summit due to un-favourable condition of snow.
Shiva (6142 Mtr.)
Area : Himachal Himalaya.
Mt. Shiva is situated in the Pangi Valley of Chamba District of Himachal Pradesh. Latitude and longitude of this peak is 76 35’ E and 33 6’ N respectively. The local people regarded this peak as a sacred mountain and often refer to it as Shibji or Kailash.
Only the first Lady Everest Climber, Junko Tawi of Japan climbed this peak in the year 1988. Several attempts were also made but no one could reach the summit after the first ascent.
Team Members :
1. Shri Basanta Singha Roy (Leader), 2. Shri Asok Roy, 3. Shri Subhasis Chakraborty, 4. Shri Ajay Bhattacherjee, 5. Shri Debasis Biswas, 6. Shri Subrata Brahma, 7. Shri Biswanath Saha and 8. Shri Mithun Bhowmick
The thirteenth expedition was organized in the month of August - September, 2002.
Commmence of journey from road head – trek started on 20/8/2002 from Cherry (240 K.M. from Manali - 14 k.m. before Killer, Head Quarter of Pangi Valley), Chamba District.
One transit camp had been established at Parmar village (3200 M) before reaching Base Camp. The team took 5 hours to reach Parmar village from Cherry. They established Base Camp (4000 M) before the snout of south glacier on a flat ground which was covered with knee high grass. The team took 4 hours to reach Base Camp.
3 more camps had been established before reaching summit of Mt. Shiva. Summit reached by 1. Shri Basanta Singha Roy, 2. Shri Debasish Biswas, 3. Shri Sange Sherpa and 4. Shri Dupka Sherpa on 30/8/2002. (First Indian Ascent).
Deotibba (6001 Mtr.)
Area : Himachal Himalaya.
Members -
1. Shri Basanta Singha Roy (Leader), 2. Shri Subrata Brahma , 3. Shri Ajay Krishna Bhattacharjee, 4. Shri Goutam Pal and Shri Rabi Shankar Karmakar.
The fourteenth expedition was organized in the month of September, 2003.
Commencement of trek from road head – trek started on 29/8/2003 from Jagatsukh Village (8 K.M. from Manali), Kullu District, Himachal Pradesh.
Number of camps en route up to Base Camp: Two transit camps had been established i.e. Chikka and Seri (3665 M) before reaching Base Camp.
2 more camps had been established before reaching summit of Mt. Deotibba. Summit reached by 1. Shri Basanta Singha Roy and 2. Shri Thupka Sherpa on 18/9/2003.
Indrasan (6221 Mtr.)
Area : Himachal Himalaya.
Members -
1. Shri Basanta Singha Roy (Leader), 2. Shri Subrata Brahma, 3. Shri Asim Mondal and 4.Shri Prasit Biswas.
The fifteenth expedition was organized in the month of August, 2004.
Commencement of trek from /road head – trek started on 19/8/2004 from Jagatsukh Village (8 K.M. from Manali), Kullu District, Himachal Pradesh.
Number of camps en route up to Base Camp: Two transit camps had been established i.e Khanol and Seri (3665 M) before reaching Base Camp.
3 More camps were established before reaching summit of Mt. Indrasan. Summit reached by 1. Shri Basanta Singha Roy, 2. Shri Thupka Thsring Sherpa, 3. Shri Pemba Sherpa and 4. Shri Sange Sherpa on 30/8/2004. (First Indian Ascent).
Shivling – (6543 Mtr.)
Area : Garhwal Himalaya.
Members –
1. Shri Basanta Singha Roy (Leader), 2. Shri Debasis Biswas (Dy. Leader), 3. Shri Asok Roy, 4. Shri Tapan Roy, 5. Shri Subrata Brahma, 6. Shri Bivas Sarkar, 7. Shri Asim Mondal and 8. Shri Bimalesh Das
The sixteenth expedition was organized in the month of August, 2005.
Commencement of trek from road head – trek started 17/8/2005 from Gangotri, Uttarkashi District, Uttarakhand.
Number of camps en route up to Base Camp. One transit camp had been established at Bhojbas before reaching Base Camp.
3 More camps had been established before reaching summit of Mt. Shivling. Summit reached by 1. Shri Basanta Singha Roy, 2. Shri Debasis Biswas, 3. Shri Pasang Sherpa and 4. Shri Pemba Sherpa on 30/8/2005.
Panwalidwar (6663 Mtr.)
Area : Kumaon Himalaya.
Members _
1. Shri Debasis Biswas (Leader), 2. Shri Basanta Singha Roy ( Dy. Leader), 3. Shri Ajay Krishna Bhattacharjee, 4. Shri Tapan Roy, 5. Shri Subrata Brahma, 6. Shri Buddhadeb Haldar, 7. Shri Bijay Sarkar, 8. Shri Supriyo Chitra and 9. Shri Souvik Sarkar.
The seventh expedition was organized in the month of August, 2006.
Commencement of trek from road head – trek started from Soang on 08/8/2006 from road head Song, Bageswar, Uttarakhand.
Number of camps en route up to Base Camp. Three transit camp had been established at Loharkhet (1750 M) on 08/08/2006, Khati (2210 M) on 09/08/2006 and Dwali (2734 M) on 10/08/2006 before reaching Base Camp (4120 Mtr.)
3 More camps had been established before reaching summit of Mt. Panwalidwar. Summit reached by 1. Shri Basanta Singha Roy, 2. Shri Debasis Biswas, 3. Shri Pasang Sherpa and 4. Shri Pemba Sherpa on 22/8/2006.
Rubalkang (6187 Mtr.)
Area : Himachal Himalaya.
It was a joint venture of Kewkradong of Bangladesh and Mountaineers’ Association of Krishnanagar of India.
The team members of Moountaineers’ Association of Krishnagar, West Bengal are – 1. Shri Basanta Singha Roy (Leader), 2. Shri Asok Roy, 3. Shri Ajay Krishna Bhattacharjee, 4. Shri Tapan Roy, 5. Shri Subrata Brahma, 6. Shri Buddhadeb Haldar, 7. Shri Shri Supriyo Chitra 8. Shri Biswanath Saha, 9. Shri Sourav Sinchan Mondal and 10. Dr. Sanjib Raha.
The team members of Kewkradong, Dhaka, Banglesh are - 1. SM. Muntasir Mamun, 2. H. Md. Shirajul Haq, 3. Saad Bin Hossain and 4. Md. Ataur Rahman Khan.
Liaison Officer : Shri Debasish Biswas.
The eighteenth expedition was organized in the month of May, 2007.
Commencement of trek from road head – trek started from Barseni, Kulu District on 20/5/1007.
Number of camps en route up to Base Camp. Three transit camps had been established at Khirganga (1750 M) on 21/5/2007, Tundabhuj (2210 M) on 22/5/2007 and Thakurkuon (2734 M) on 23/5/2007 before reaching Base Camp (4120 Mtr.)
3 More camps had been established before reaching summit of Mt. Rubalkang. Summit reached by 1. Shri Basanta Singha Roy, 2. Shri Biswanath Saha, 3. Shri Muntasir Mamun, 4. Shri Shirajul Haq, 5. Shri Saad Bin Hussain, 6. Shri Thendup Sherpa and 7. Shri Pema Sherpa on 30/5/2007.
Again 1. Shri Debasish Biswas, 2. Shri Ajay Krishna Bhattacharjee, 3. Shri Sourav Sinchan Mondal, 4. Shri Subrata Brahma, 5. Shri Buddhadeb Haldar, 6. Shri Thendup Sherpa and 7. Shri Pema Sherpa reached the summit on 31/5/2007.
Thalay Sagar (6904 Mtr.)
Area : Garhwal Himalaya
Members –
1. Shri Basanta Singha Roy (Leader), 2. Shri Asok Roy, 3. Shri Ajay Krishna Bhattacharjee, 4. Shri Tapan Roy, 5. Shri Subrata Brahma, 6. Shri Biswanath Saha, 7. Shri Asim Kumar Mondal and 8. Shri Ranjan Kumar and 9. Shri Bijoy Kanti Sarkar.
The nineteenth expedition was organized in the month of August – September, 2008.
Commencement of trek from road head – trek started 15/8/2008 from Gangotri, Uttarkashi District, Uttarakhand.
Number of camps en route up to Base Camp. One transit camp had been established in between Bhojkharak and Kedarkharak before reaching Base Camp i.e. Kedartal.
3 More camps had been established before reaching summit of Mt. Thalay Sagar. Summit reached by 1. Shri Basanta Singha Roy, 2. Shri Pasang Sherpa, 3. Shri Pemba Sherpa and 4. Shri Phurba Gyalgen on 01/9/2008. (This was first Indian ascent).
Changuch (6322 Mtr.)
Area : Kumaon Himalaya
Members –
1. Shri Basanta Singha Roy (Leader), 2. Shri Sanjib Chakraborty, 3. Shri Ajay Krishna Bhattacharjee, 4. Shri Subrata Brahma, 5. Shri Asim Kumar Mondal, 6. Shri Supriyo Chitra, 7. Shri Bejoy Kanti Sarkar.
The twentieth expedition was organised in the month of August - September, 2009. Commencement of trek from road head - trek started on 18/8/2009 from Song, Bageswar District of Uttarakhand.
3 transit camps established at Loharkhet, Khati & Phurkia before reaching Base Camp at Martoli Kharak (Beside Pindari '0' Point).
4 More camps had been established. Summit was not possible due to climbing difficulties. Then 4 member and 4 Sherpa crossed Traill's Pass on 30/8/2009. Members are :1. Basanta Singha Roy, 2. Sanjib Chakraborty, 3. Subrata Brahma and 4. Asim Kumar Mondal. Sherpas are Pasang Sherpa, Pemba Sherpa, Phurba Sherpa and Lilabati Rai (Cook).
Total Cost for the Expedition: Rs.42 lacs. Of which 40% contributed by members of the Association and the rest has come from YSD, Govt. of West Bengal, Well-wishers, Sponsors and donation. Now we have a debt of Rs.12 lacs.
Help & Sponsors: Sports & Youth Services Dept. Govt.of West Bengal, Punjab National Bank, Climbing World - Ahmedabad and many other organizations and well-wishers.
Administrative Arrangement by: Loben Expeditions, Kathmandu. (Permit jointly with Asian Trek – Expedition Name – “ECO Everest Expedition, 2010”. The group was headed by Legendary Mountaineer -Mr. Apa Sherpa who summitted Everest 20th times this year).
Sherpa: Pasang Phutar Sherpa (2 times Everest Summitter) and Pemba Sherpa (6 times Everest Summitter)
Name of the Participants: Basanta Singha Roy (Leader – Climbing Member), Debasish Biswas (Climbing Member), Asok Roy (Base Camp Member), Sourav Sinchan Mandal (Base Camp Member) and Bivas Sarkar (Base Camp Member).
The team left Kolkata by air on 1st April, 2010. Though the plan to organize the expedition through North Col (Tibet, China) side but just 2 days before our departure for mountain Chinese authorities refused to give us visa. Then we have no other alternative but to proceed through Nepal side. For this reason we have to pay an extra amount of Rs.7 lac to the agency because Nepal Govt. charged more amount than China Govt. Our agency Loben Expeditions, Kathmandu tried hard and managed to make a permit jointly with Asian Trek. We started from Kathmandu on 5th April, 2010 by air and reached Lukla. On 6th April, 2010 we started our trek for Everest Base Camp. We stayed at Namchebazar for 3 nights so that our Base Camp would set up before we reach Base Camp. This is occurred due to switch over from North side to South side. On 14th April – we reached Base Camp (5300 mtr.). On 21st we (2 member and 1 Sherpa) moved to Camp – I (6000 mtr.) crossing the famous Khumbu Icefall. We stayed there and next day we come back to Base Camp. On 26th we again moved to Camp-I. Stayed there and next day we reached Camp – II (6400 mtr.) and stayed 2 nights. On 29th we reached Camp – III (7300 mtr.) and stayed there. Next day we return to Camp – II and stayed there. Next day i.e. 1st May we directly returned to Base Camp. Then we stayed at Base Camp for long time because we were waiting for fair weather that means we were waited for that day when wind speed on the top of Everest will be very low. That date was 16th May (which we received through various sources – Survey through Satellite made by various countries Meteorological Department). We (Basanta Singha Roy, Debasish Biswas, Pemba Sherpa and Pasang Sherpa) moved for summit on 12th May. Directly we reached Camp-II and stayed that camp on 13th also. Then we reached to Camp-III next day. On 15th May morning we moved to Camp-IV (South Col – Summit Camp) using supplementary oxygen. We reached South Col at 3.00 p.m. Our plan was to move for summit on the same night. But we could not proceed due to high speed wind. Many other teams also forced to stay that night on South Col for the same reason. Next day i.e. on 16th May all the climbers moved for summit at 8.00 p.m. All the night we climbed using Head Torch and we (1. Basanta Singha Roy, 2. Debasish Biswas, 3. Pasang Sherpa and 4.Pemba Sherpa) reached the top during a span of one hour from 7.45 a.m. to 8.40 a.m. at that time the weather was clear. We snapped many photographs. Viewed the surroundings and then started to came down at 9.00 a.m. and reached South Col at 1.00 p.m. safely. We were fully exhausted and decided to stay South Col that night and on 18th we reached Camp-II and next day i.e. on 19th we reached Base Camp. We left Base Camp on 22nd and reached Kathmandu on 25th morning on the same route and same mode. We left Kathmandu on 27th and reached Kolkata on the same evening. We feel proud that Hon’ble Minister –in- Charge, Youth Affairs & Sports, Govt. of West Bengal, Shri Kanti Bhusan Gangopadhyay received us at the airport and many others also present there.
Total Cost for the Expedition: Rs.25 lacs.
Help & Sponsors: Youth Services Department, Govt.of West Bengal and many other organizations and well-wishers. Administrative Arrangement by: Loben Expeditions, Kathmandu. (Permit jointly with French Kanchenjunga 2011 SPR led by Mr. Ludovic Paul Nicolas Challeat of France & Asstt. Leader -Basanta Singha Roy).
Sherpa: Pasang Futar Sherpa, Pemba Chuti Sherpa & Ang Tashi Sherpa (three brother) from Darjeeling.
Name of the Participants: Basanta Singha Roy & Debasish Biswas of Mountaineers’ Association of Krishnanagar, West Bengal, India.
We left Kolkata by Darjeeling Mail on 28th March, 2011 and next morning we reached New Jalpaiguri. Members of Himalayan Nature & Adventure Foundation, Siliguri received us at New Jalpaiguri Station. Later we met with Pasang Futar Sherpa who came from Darjeeling to accompany us and after a brief Press Meet at Siliguri we proceeded for Kakarvita (border of Nepal & India) by Car. Members of Mountaineers’ Association of Krishnanagar - Asok Roy, Sourav Sinchan Mandal & Tarak Sen also accompanied us up to Kakarvita. At Kakarvita, Pemba Chuti Sherpa was waiting for us. He came from Kathmandu after arranging all expedition works like permit, equipment, oxygen etc. and marketing. Other expedition crews already proceeded towards Medibung (road head). We started from Kakarviata by Car for Medibung via Illam and Phidim. Members of MAK went back to Krishnagar. We reached Illam in the evening and then proceed for Medibung by a Jeep which was waiting for us with our ration and equipments. We were forced to stay at Phidim as the Driver refused to proceed further at night. On 30th March we again moved on for Medibung early in the morning and though the road condition was not good, we reached Medibung within 6.30 a.m. (we started from Phidim at 3.30 a.m.). Here we met with our kitchen staff - Lilabati Rai (Cook), Dawa Sherpa (Kitchen Boy) and 2 other teenage boy Norbu and Ashram who will assist us up to Base Camp. Porters had already reached there from Taplejung but not as per our requirement. So most of the Porters had to carry double load (admissible 25 kg). We started trekking at 9.30 a.m. and reached Amedin village at 3.00 p.m. We stayed there in a school. Due to heavy load, Porters came very late. The route is very beautiful but with sharp ups and downs here and there. Next day we proceeded for Khewang. The route is steep but very nice. Today also we reached Khewang late due to slow going of Porters. Here we stayed in a house because there was no lodge. This village is very beautiful, rich and clean. Next day i.e. on 1st April we started climbing and reached Ekchana La (2080 M) and descended to Otam and again climb second pass and then descended to Yamphudin. The check post of Kanchenjunga Conservation Area is here and we paid NR.500 as entry fee as we are SAARC country citizen. Again we started climbing up to the Sherpa village at Yamphudin. We stayed here at Tsring Sherpa’s house (Yamphudin Guest House). He is also our Porter Agent. During the entire expedition period food was made by our kitchen staff. Only here we got telephone facilities in the whole route but it is very costly (NR 100 per minute). 2nd April, some Porters refused to carry loads further and they returned. Then we decided to carry loads part by part. That day we started trekking early in the morning and after one hour trek we started climbing a steep hill through dense forest and reached Lashethang (3330 M). The scenic beauty of this route is very beautiful due to colourful rhododendrons and butterfly. One Sherpa family temporarily stays here and one can get shelter in their small lodge. But today our target is to stay at Torondin. Due to huge land slide we were forced to bypass this land slide area and then descended on a muddy trail and reached Torondin. There are only two Sherpa houses and we took shelter in one of them. We stayed there for 2 days because porters could not reach Torondin and they stayed at Lashethang. At night heavy snowing started. Next day i.e. on 4th we reached Tseram in fair weather. The route is very beautiful and along a river. There also we stayed at Tshring’s lodge. It was too cold there. We stayed there for 3 nights. From here, a route goes to Sikkim crossing Khang La and another route from here goes to Sinelapcha La (4580 M). One Russian team came here crossing this pass. When we stayed at Tseram, our Met (Porter Leader), K.B. Lama (elder brother of our Porter agent Tsring Sherpa) died at Ramche. On 5th April he moved to Ramche with some of our Porter. But on 6th morning he expired. At that time he was in a Tent with his nephew. Luckily on that day a French team came there by Helicopter. The body of Late Lama was rescued by that Helicopter. Next day i.e. 7th morning we left Tseram. In the meantime most of our loads reached at Ramche. Our Sherpas also ferried loads. The route is covered with fresh snow towards north and very beautiful. We viewed Kokthang, Rathong & Kabru group of peaks. Trees already vanished as we reached the higher altitude. It is small trek. Only one house is there so we pitched Tents. This place is situated on a very vast beautiful meadow surrounded by Yalung Glacier and high mountains. We spent 4 nights there. This place is also very cold. One day we visited along Yalung Glacier towards north and viewed for the first time our targeted peak Mt. Kanchenjunga. Took photographs and returned to Ramche. On 11th morning we proceeded towards north. First 2 hours i.e. up to Okthang, we got nice trail and then descended to Yalung Glacier to avoid rock fall zone. We used fixed rope when descending. Then there was no trail and it is very tiresome due to glacial walk. We stayed here also in Tents. We named it ‘Deposit Camp’. Here also we stayed for 2 nights. Porters and Sherpas made ferry to Base Camp. On 13th we trekked through moraine and then through moraine ridge. At last we climbed a big slope and reached Base Camp (5500 M). Just before reaching Base Camp we used fixed rope at one place. The Base Camp is situated on full of big boulders and there is no flat place but the scenic beauty of this area is very charming. We pitched our Tents on a readymade place. We took 15 days to reach Base Camp where only 10 days is considered to be sufficient. 14th to 16th April – On these days we make our Dining Tent, Kitchen Tent, Temple and took rest . Norbu and Ashram left Base Camp for their home. On 17th we proceeded towards Camp-1 for some practice. After crossing Base Camp we entered in the glacier and reached at the bottom of the face. First we climbed a rock with the help of Jumar and then continue climbing over snow using fixed rope. A Russian team already had fixed rope up to Camp-1. Then we came down after reaching half of this route. On 18th we performed Puja for our success and safe return. On 19th, Pasang, Pemba and Tashi ferried loads to Camp-1. On 20th, myself, Debasish, Pasang, Pemba & Tashi started climbing for Camp-1. First we entered in to the glacier and then we continued climbing on the face then we traversed to the left and reached at the bottom of a steep slope. The last portion of this slope is the steepest which is around 70o. Just above this serac, Camp-1 is situated on a snowy ridge at 6200 M. We pitched Tents there. Other groups also pitched tents in that place. This is a beautiful place. Yalung glacier, Kabru and Janu is clearly visible from here. Pemba and Tashi went back to Base Camp. We took 5 hours to reach Camp-1. On 21st we returned Base Camp within 1 and half hours. From 22nd to 27th – we took rest. On these days Sherpas ferried loads to Camp-1 & Camp-2. Every day at Base Came the weather was beautiful in the morning but in the afternoon it usually started snowing a lot. Total 3 groups came to climb Mt. Kanchenjunga through this route. One Russian group comprising 9 members, One International group comprising 13 members (Mingma Sherpa was the leader of this group who himself will climb his last fourteen 8000 M peak Mt. Kanchenjunga) and the third group is French (in which we, ourselves are 2 member, the French are 6 members, 2 Swiss members and 3 other members comprising various countries) that means total 35 members. We are lucky because last year only 3 members from South Korea came to climb Mt. Kanchenjunga in this route during this season. We planned to spend 4 nights in higher camps before our summit approach - at Camp-2 (3 nights) & Camp-3 (1 night) for acclimatization and then to return back to Base Camp. So on 28th we proceeded to Camp-2. Today we took 4 hours to reach Camp-1. But could not proceed further due to bad weather. We stayed at Camp-1. Next day we proceeded for Camp-2. First we climbed a steep wall and reached on a horizontal ridge. Then we walked on this ridge for about 100 M and then climbed down and after traversing we reached a big plateau. After crossing this plateau towards north we were gradually gaining height and established our Camp-2 at an altitude of 6400 M. Next day we took rest at Camp-2. On 1st May we got ready to move towards Camp-3. Weather was charming. Suddenly weather forecast declared that very soon weather will deteriorate so that we decided to go back to Base Camp instead Camp-3. We took 3 and half hours to return Base Camp. From 2nd May to 12th May we took rest at Base Camp. In this period our Sherpas ferried loads up to Camp-3 and also they participated the rope fixing along with other Sherpas. At last our Agency, Loben Expeditions and also other teams informed that weather will be good for summit on 16th that means a weather window is confirmed for 13th to 18th. So we planned leaving Base Camp on 13th and climb directly to Camp-2. All other climbers also decided to follow the same routine. On 13th morning myself, Debasish and Pasang left Base Camp in fine weather. We took long time to reach Camp-1 due to high number of climbers and Sherpas. And then we reached Camp-2. We were fully exhausted due extremely heat and there was no wind. Most of the time the temperature during this expedition varies in between -15o to +40o in one day. In the evening we got latest weather forecast that told the updated weather window will be from 14th to 19th. So we changed our plan and decided to start our summit on 17th. We decided to stay one day more at Camp-3. In the meantime Camp-3 was established and some of our loads were deposited near Camp-4. The Russians and French team had already reached Camp-4 long before. On 14th we started climbing the big face which is full of serac. We were gradually gaining height using fixed rope. In one place we faced a big crevasse which was connected with a snow bridge previously. But now the bridge is broken. Today Pemba and Tashi will join us directly from Base Camp. Soon we faced the crevasse but our Sherpas fixed an aluminum Ladder on the crevasse. Then we again started climbing and faced a big serac. Rope was already fixed by Sherpas and we climbed this serac and reached Camp-3 (7000 M). Camp-3 was established under a big ice wall. We spent 2 nights in this camp. Sherpas ferried loads to Camp-4. On 16th we left Camp-3. Weather was good. Our Sherpas could not move fast due to knee deep soft snow. Myself and Debasish started using oxygen from today. So we started climbing comfortably. We took long time to reach Camp-4 (7600 M). Camp-4 was established on the great shelf. Again weather forecast changed. We decided to make our summit approach on 18th. We spent 3 nights leisurely in the Tent. On 18th, Pemba along with other Sherpa fixed rope on the colouir up to 8000 M. At 6.00 p.m. we started our summit attempt in a fair weather. But after half an hour climbing suddenly weather deteriorated and we were forced to come back. On 19th we again started our summit journey at 5.00 p.m. Other team also started their summit attempt. Weather was very good. There was no wind. On the previous day some Russian & French climbers summitted Mt. Kanchenjunga.. Gradually we proceeded through the couloirs using fixed rope. Later there was no fixed rope. Snow condition was favourable. Then we turned right and started climbing a rock wall. Gradually the night ended and morning sun started glittering over the Kabru peak. We were exhausted but continued our climbing over the mixed rock and ice wall using old fixed rope. At the end we faced a chimney and climbed down using rope. We met here with Mingma Sherpa, who completed his last 14 8000 M peak just 30 minutes before. I congratulated him. Again we started climbing and reached the snowy top of Mt. Kanchenjunga (Main) at 7.30 a.m... We took photographs, performed Puja. We spent 1 and half hours on the top of Mt. Kanchenjunga. Pasang came late. Then we started our return journey from summit. We decided to come down steadily and cautiously using belay rope where necessary. At 8.30 p.m. we reached summit camp safely. Next day i.e. on 21st we reached Camp-2 and on 22nd we reached Base Camp. On 24th we left Base Camp and spent night at Ramche. Next day we reached Lashethang and next day we reached Khewang. On 27th we reached Pashupatinagar via Medibung by Car. We reached Kolkata on 29th May, 2011 morning by train via Siliguri.
In the year 2013, the annual expedition of the Mountaineers’ Association of Krishnanagar was scheduled at yet another 8000m peak – Dhaulagiri-I, the seventh highest peak in the world at 8167m beckoned us. Situated in the western region of the Nepal Himalayas, Dhaulagiri-I is not as difficult a climb as Kanchenjunga or Annapurna, but its uniqueness lies in the fierce winds around the peak. Mountaineers have named it the “Mountain of Storm”. In an 1808 survey Dhaulagiri was conferred the honour of being the highest peak of the world, and this status remained intact till 1838, when another survey transferred it to Kanchenjunga. Before Dhaulagiri, the crown remained in possession of Mount Chimborazo in Ecuador. In clear weather, Dhaulagiri is visible from the entire north of Bihar and even Gorakhpur in Uttar Pradesh.
Dhaulagiri is encircled by 12 peaks of more than 7000m altitudes, and 37 more who are more than 6000m high. Dhaulagiri itself is really a series of six peaks marked Dhaulagiri I,II, III, IV, V and VI, but only Dhaulagiri I is a 8000m plus peak. Naturally, the region is known as the Dhaulagiri Massif. A circumnavigation of the massif is a dream for trekkers – the trek begins at Beni, the confluence of Kaligandaki river and Magdi Khola which can be reached from Pokhra in Nepal and proceeds along Magdi Khola, reaches Dhaulagiri base camp, crosses French Pass and via Marfa reaches the bank of river Kaligandaki, along which one can get back to Beni. With Dhaulagiri I at its centre, this circular route is the famous Dhaulagiri circuit trek. Trekkers from across the world rush in here, mesmerized by the exquisite landscape around.
On April 13, 2013, Debasis Biswas and I flew in to Kathmandu from Kolkata, in company of three friends from Howrah – Malay Mukherjee, Kiran Patra and Subrata Sinha. Malay would be our comrade in the expedition, the other two would return from Dhaulagiri base camp. Spending the next day in Kathmandu, we set out on the 15th towards Beni. We will approach Dhaulagiri base camp along the bank of Magdi Khola, though one may go there also via Marfa, crossing Dhapa pass and French pass. This latter route saves time, but due to heavy deposition of snow at this time of year on the route, it becomes impossible to go with porters or horses. We reached Darban from Beni by bus the next day. Our trek would begin from here. On April 17, with our luggage on horseback, we started alongside the Magdi river, moving through great natural beauty and passing frequently through villages that thrive on farming done on rock tables grooved out of the mountains by the river. The first night was spent in a village called Khamla; these villages provide facile accommodation to cater to the numerous trekkers who come by. The second day was spent in the village Boghara and the third at a place called Dobang. Boghara was the last of the villages, but roadside hotels stand to serve fooding and lodging needs of trekkers and climbers. On April 20 we reached the Italian base camp where six nights had to be spent, because the first two days stalled us with heavy snowfall and on the next four, porters ferried our luggage from here to the Base Camp. The horses have gone back from here. We arrived at the base camp finally on the 26th and put up our tent at 4750m altitude upon the Chhonbardhan glacier. Other teams of Dhaulagiri climbers have already come here – French, Polish and Spanish teams and a Japanese lady. The 3 member French team and 8 member Polish teams have come here on April 9th & 10th respectively accompanied by no Sherpas, while the 3 member Spanish team has one with them. The Japanese lady has two Sherpas with her, and we have three. The French and Polish have already set their second camps, but have failed to advance farther.
In Dhaulagiri, teams usually set three camps after the base one. Four would be ideal, but after the third one, no safe space is available where one can put up. At the base camp, three days went by to settle down with our things, and then on the 30th we set out on the long trek to Camp I – a seven to eight-hour journey at the least. There are high risks of snow slides on the route which also includes rock fall areas, so we decided to begin the ascent while it was still night, taking advantage of lower temperatures that will keep the snow and rocks frozen and stuck. Moving out at 2.30 a.m. we walked over the glacier for about half an hour, finding our way by head torches, and reached the foot of a steep ice wall. Climbing about 500 feet with the help of ropes and zoomers up the steep side, we walked east along a slope and came to a snowfield which took a long time to traverse. The sun now had begun to shoot its first rays: we were marvelled at the heavenly play of colours on Dhaulagiri, which appeared to sight on our right, i.e. south. We were deprived of such sights from the base camp because a huge rocky chunk blocks, (looks like famous Igar peak) the view of Dhaulagiri there. Now we saw the moon, looking like a decorative piece over Dhaulagiri. This journey offered many moments of ethereal beauty which was greedily lapped up in our cameras. There are plenty of opened or covered crevasses in the area and we moved with caution. At a few places we found ropes over these crevasses and could jump over the cracks, but noted with alarm the many remains of snow slides strewn around. Again we had to negotiate a wall of ice, with ropes because the slope was a steep one. At 9 a.m. we arrived at Camp I at 5800 metres. Next morning, our two Sherpas Dawa and Pasang left for Camp II with ration, tents, oxygen etc., and on the way back they descended straight to the base camp. The following day, we three with Pemba Sherpa approached Camp II. This part of the ascent is a safer bet – ropes need not be fixed, there are no risks of snow slides or hidden crevasses – only a slow climb through soft snow. After some time we viewed on our east the peak Annapurna which we had scaled last year. There are marking flags stuck on the path at intervals for us to go along, but as we came close to the second camp we found the flags no more. We were the only team up here though.
Soon as we came to the doors of the second camp, a dense snow began to fall that immediately clamped a whiteout all around; nothing remained visible even at a hand’s stretch, let alone our tent, as we groped blindly on. But it was getting stiff every moment and we decided to call it quits, abandoning the wish to spend the night at the camp. And then, to cap it all, we lost track on our way down and had to try erecting a cave of snow which failed miserably. In the face of great danger, the effort to climb down was renewed and, finding the track back at five in the afternoon, we returned to Camp I after a ten-hour ordeal. It was nevertheless a rare and rich experience. The day after was spent in recuperation as Pemba went to the base camp. On May 4, Dawa and Pasang returned to Camp I, and we all climbed to Camp II, this time smoothly enough, and passed the night there before coming back to base camp.
Now came the phase of the great awaiting – for the ideal day when the winds over Dhaulagiri would be calmer and the sky clear and shiny. We had learnt at first that May 13 could be a clear and probable day, and our Sherpas had accordingly gone up with the others on May 8 to fix ropes between Camps II and III. This is a steep thousand-metre climb along the northeast ridge of Dhaulagiri; rope-fixing the whole track is a tough job that would take two or three days in the least. It is such a task that other climbers have gone back from Camp II admitting defeat. By the time the Sherpas returned on May 10, the team of French climbers had been replaced by a German one of six climbers and three Sherpas. On the same day we set out for the French Pass, just to stretch our limbs after a rather long vacation at the base camp. On the route to French Pass we had a clear view of Dhaulagiri and our way to the summit. It took six hours to visit the French Pass. On returning, the Sherpas told us that a little part of the route to Camp III was left to lay ropes on, and they would finish the task on the day we would finally occupy the camp.
We learnt from the Spanish, Polish and German teams that May 19 had been forecast as an ideal day for reaching the summit. Our agency too informed from Kathmandu that the weather would remain good and the winds slower at the top on that day. Based upon this, all of us made a decision to attempt the summit from Base Camp, beginning on May 16. But the previous afternoon brought the news that wind would blow at 40-50 miles per hour at the Dhaulagiri summit on May 19, and the velocities would be lower on the 22nd. So our plans had to be scrapped again, and days went by in anticipation at the Base Camp, enjoying the incomparable beauty of nature around the open stretches of the camp. May 19 had been scheduled as the day of our final journey.
On the agreed day we set out for Camp I; climbers from the other teams had followed us and set out at dawn too from the base camp. We arrived early this time and Pemba Sherpa who had come with us proceeded to Camp II. Dawa Sherpa had been at Camp II the day before with Pasang, he now came down to Camp I. The next day we moved up smoothly to Camp II, in company of other teams. Camp II (6400m) stands precariously under an icefall where cutting ice slopes tents have been pitched. All the tents are huddled together on a small space, but this is the only safe spot here. Standing here, one can see to the east many peaks of the Nilgiri group and the Annapurna so vividly that one feels one can touch them. To the west, the whole route up to Camp III opens to view and towards north and north-west Tukuche and peaks of Dhaulagiri Group. On May 21, we began our climb together towards Camp III, which should normally take 9 to 10 hours up the steep slope, though the whole track had been roped beforehand. Achieving this climb without oxygen is a test of one’s stamina; we reached Camp III (7250m) at 3p.m., having started at 7a.m. Tents at Camp III have had to be put up with great difficulty and sheet-anchored with separate ropes lest they are blown away with the mad winds. We put up two tents and had begun our rest in them when a fierce wind began to blow, threatening to uproot our tents, going on and on despite our earnest prayers. At about 10p.m. all the teams except us went out for the summit but returned about three hours later, thwarted by the stormy blows. For the whole of the next day too, the wind blew with similar intensity; the Polish and German teams abandoned the attempt and went back to the base camp. There remained only two climbers of the Spanish team with their Sherpa, and the lone Japanese lady in a tent 200 metres above us.
On 22nd at about 10 in the night Kesab, the Sherpa with the Spanish team, told us they were going out for the summit. I fell into a worry because the wind was blowing still, though a little softer. Finally however, we too decided to go up and six of us started out at 10.30p.m. Since Camp III stood on a slope of hard ice everyone had to attach safeties to their ropes once they stepped out of their tents, else one could slip into nowhere. For the first 200 metres there are ropes to climb by, far ahead we can discern the flashes of head torches as the Spanish team moves up. In about two hours we came up to the Japanese lady’s tent, and they joined us in the climb. Our friend Malay Mukherjee was falling back for some time, so we advised him to stay back there with Dawa Sherpa for the night, and wait for us the next morning at Camp III, as we moved on. Here again ropes were fixed for a distance since the gradient was high. We moved forward, all together, gathering our strengths, garnering our courage. Two hours ahead there were ropes no more and our climb slowed because the leading man had to move with extreme caution. We led the climb by rotation: sometimes one of us stepped first and sometimes one from the Spanish. The lights of dawn touched upon our climb; weather was clear but a strong gust of wind often brushed past us, sprinkling snowy dust on our bodies and faces. My woollen cap flew away with one such gust, and such a quantity of snowflakes hardened on my snow goggles that I could not wipe it clean and had to wear another. The terrible gales further slowed our movement which had to negotiate two rocky areas in the meantime. It was already late, yet we were quite some distance away from the summit.
It was about 3p.m. then and we were 100 metre away from the summit. Temperature had fallen sharply due to the wind. We were moving rope-up, led by Kesab Sherpa and his Spanish climber, Juanjo Garra. Behind them were the Japanese climber Chizuko Kono and her two Sherpas followed by the four of us and Lolo Gonzales, the leader of the Spanish team, alone. Suddenly, we saw Kesab fall down and pull Juanjo down with him in a snatch, and then the two of them rolled up and bounced down like a football. We stood dumbstruck, not knowing what to do or where they would slide, down to what abyss. About 300 feet below, Kesab suddenly stuck to something and Juanjo, rolling down after him, hit him and also got stuck a little below. We had never witnessed such an accident before – it confounded us for a time. When we regained our right senses, we pondered over what to do: in the meantime Lolo had arrived and was shouting in Spanish some question to Juanjo. Kesab has stood up, Juanjo is tossing about but failing to stand up. The Japanese lady has begun to climb down, we too took a quick decision to regress. Turning back, we saw both Kesab and Lolo arranging for rescue to Juanjo. We were coming down slowly with blurring eyes as darkness descended and head torches had to be put on. Our pace became slower and slower. All on a sudden Debasish cried out “Basantada!” He was unable to walk any more. Glancing at him, I too sat down on the snow and almost immediately, inexplicably, lost all my strength. I failed to stand up again, all my energy seemed to have drained out. I appealed to Pemba and Pasang to carry us down on their backs, knowing full well that it was utterly impossible.
I had later realized that shortage of oxygen had caused our collapse. Pemba with great effort convinced Debasish to walk down and began to arrange it, but Pasang climbed down leaving me prone and unable to get up. I lay there, at 7800 metres, helpless under the open sky. I faced my destiny, clear and irreversible and pitiless, on this last night of my life. A melancholy sea pulsed over me, with countless memories bobbing up, and the face of my 17-year old son. Yet these, again, passed away. I have been a seasoned mountaineer who has coursed through plenty of dangers and tackled stiff situations in my favour by the strength of my coolheaded and firm decisions. I have scaled many formidable peaks, powered by my varied experience, although this was a novel situation even for me. A strange confidence arose from an unknown corner of my mind, telling me I won’t die, I will definitely return alive. Some voice inside me reminded that Dawa Wangchu Sherpa, who was in the third camp now, would come up in the morning with oxygen and carry me down. These were really only frantic flashes crossing my mind – sometimes my heart beat so fast it seemed it would burst.
I do not know when I had fallen asleep; on sudden waking I saw rays of light in the eastern sky which brought the happy suggestion that the sun would rise now, giving me warmth and a lease of life. Sleep took me over again. Oscillating between sleep and waking, I again saw light flooding everywhere, and then discerned Pasang Sherpa coming up. He comes to me, stays for a while and goes down again. Dawa comes up then, and my assumption comes to reality as he puts me on oxygen which supplies a little strength to my completely immobile body. My throat had turned a desert from thirst, I begin to chew the ice that Dawa had brought up in his bottle as water. After this, Dawa begins to help me down – with great labour, sitting squat on the ice sometimes, slipping and sliding, I am able at length to arrive at the tent of that Japanese lady, and find Debasish, Pemba and another Sherpa there. Resting for the night at the tent, Pemba took me down in the morning to Camp III on 25th, and thence to the Base Camp, hung from a helicopter that after a while transported me to Kathmandu. After two days at the Intensive Care Unit of a Kathmandu hospital, I felt a little better.
During recuperation, a volley of sad news met me. Chizuko Kono, the 67-year-old Japanese lady, had fallen close to where I was lying and succumbed to death in the night as her oxygen ran out. One of her two Sherpas rested at Camp IV and later returned with us to the Base Camp. The other one descended to Camp III, but then somehow went insane and no one found him ever again. The 50-year-old Juanjo Gara fought a heroic, unequal battle against nature for three nights – for May 23, 24 and 25 he fell under the sky with no support. Finally on May 26, when a team of Sherpas went up to him with oxygen and medicines did he admit defeat. His Sherpa could bring him quite some way down from the spot of accident and never thought of abandoning him though Juanjo’s severely injured ankle had rendered him unable to walk. After his demise, other Sherpas brought Kesab down and moved him to a hospital at Pokhra via helicopter. All other climbers and sherpas came down to Base safely. When I was fallen in the open night Pasang Sherpa, in spite of my repeated and earnest requests, had not stayed by me, but hid close to me behind some rock and had come up to me as soon as morning light dawned. And Dawa Wangchu Sherpa! Words are paltry things, they would utterly fail to describe how he brought me down – to the camps, to life, to this beloved world! My head bows down in gratitude and wonder at the simple virtuosity in the heart of this young boy. The Himalayas have turned me away this time, after decades of giving me galore, and this time has taken a price – three fingers from my foot.