Expeditions
MAK has successfully completed the following mountaineering expeditions.
Expedition Details
Mt. Thelu (6000 Mtr.) & Koteswar (6061 Mtr.) Expedition, 1987.
Area : Gangotri Region, Garhwal Himalaya.
Members –
1. Shri Pralay Majumder (Leader), 2. Shri Asok Roy, 3. Shri Subrata Bhattacharjee, 4. Shri Sanjib Chkaraborty, 5. Shri Netai Das, 6. Dr. Kiriti Tarafdar and 7. Ms. Basanti Londhre.
The first expedition was organized in the month of May, 1987.
Commencement of road head – trek start from Gangotri of Uttarkashi District on 10/5/1987.
Number of camps en route to Base Camp : One transit camp at Bhojbas had been established.
Two more camps had been established before reaching summit of Mt. Thelu. Summit reached by 1. Shri Pralay Majumder, 2. Shri Subrata Bhattacharjee, 3. Shri Sanjib Chkaraborty, 4. Ms. Basanti Londhre and 5. Shri Prem Singh on 15/5/1987.
Mt. Koteswar (19880 ft.) summit reached by 1. Shri Pralay Majumder, 2. Shri Sanjib Chkaraborty, 3. Ms. Basanti Londhre and 4. Shri Prem Singh on 21/5/1987.
Gangstang (6162 Mtr.) Expedition, 1990.
Area : Lahul Region, Himachal Himalaya.
Members –
1. Shri Sourendra Banerjee (Leader), 2. Shri Asok Roy, 3. Shri Subrata Bhattacharjee, 4. Shri Sanjib Chakraborty, 5. Shri Basanta Singha Roy, 6. Shri Subhashis Chakraborty, 7. Shri Goutam Pal and 8. Shri Subhash Saha.
The 2nd expedition was organized in the month of July, 1990.
Commencement of trek from road head - trek start from Keylong (Lahul & Spiti District of Himachal Pradesh) on 21/7/1990.
Number of camps en route up to Base Camp. One transit camp at an altitude of 3810 Mtr. on a nice alpine medow beside Billing Nallah had been established in between Keylong and Base Camp (4480 Mtr.) near Gangstang Glacier.
Two more camps had been established before reaching summit of Mt. Gangstang. Summit reached by 1. Shri Basanta Singha Roy, 2. Shri Lebodram Thakur and 3. Shri Kurumchand Thakur on 28/7/1990.
Baljuri (5922 Mtr.)
Area : Kumaon Himalaya.
Members –
1. Shri Basanta Singha Roy (Leader), 2. Shri Asok Roy (Dy. Leader), 3. Shri Subrata Bhattacharjee, 4. Shri Sanjib Chakraborty, 5. Dr. Partha Protim Roy (Medical Officer), 6. Shri Subhashis Chakraborty, 7. Shri Goutam Pal, 9. Shri Debasish Roy, 9. Shri Raju Roy and 10. Shri Subhash Saha.
The third expedition was organized in the month of September, 1991.
Commencement of trek from road head - trek start from Soang (Bageswar District, Uttarakhand) on 18/9/1991.
Number of camps en route up to Base Camp. Three transit camps had been established to reach Base Camp. First camp at Loharkhet (1750 Mtr.) and stayed at PWD Bunglow, 2nd at Khati (2210 Mtr.) and stayed at Hotel and third camp at Dwali (2576 Mtr.) and here stayed at Nigam Bunglow. Base Camp (4120 Mtr.) established 1 k.m. ahead of Pindari Glacier on a beautiful meadow on the true right bank of Pindai river
Two more camps had been established before reaching summit Mt. Baljuri. Summit reached by 1. Shri Basanta Singha Roy, 2. Shri Asok Roy, 3. Shri Sanjib Chakraborty, 4. Shri Debasish Roy, 5. Shri Raju Roy, 6. Shri Subhas Saha, 7. Shri Subrata Bhattacharjee, 8. Shri Rup Singh and 9. Shri Gopal Singh on 25/9/1991 and 26/9/1991.
Un-named Peak (6352 Mtr. - Seta Glacier).
Area : Gangotri Glacier, Garhwal Himalaya.
Members –
1. Shri Basanta Singha Roy (Leader), 2. Shri Asok Roy (Dy. Leader), 3. Dr. Partha Protim Roy (Medical Officer), 4. Shri Raju Roy, 5. Shri Nirmal Mukherjee and 6. Shri Ajay Krishna Bhattacharjee.
The fourth expedition was organized in the month of August – September, 1992.
Commencement of trek from road head – Trek start from Gangotri (Uttarkashi District) on 21/8/1992.
Number of camps en route to Base Camp : One transit camp at Bhojbas had been established to reach Base Camp i.e. Nandanvan (4360 Mtr.).
4 more camps had been established before reaching summit Un-named peak. Summit reached by 1. Shri Basanta Singha Roy, and 2. Shri Rajbahadur Sahi on 01/9/1992.
Shrikailash (6932 Mtr.)
Area : Gangotri Glacier, Garhwal Himalaya.
Members –
1. Shri Basanta Singha Roy (Leader), 2. Shri Asok Roy (Dy. Leader), 3. Sanjib Chakraborty, 4. Shri Debasish Roy, 5. Shri Subhas Saha, 6. Shri Raju Roy, 7, Shri Nirmal Mukherjee, 8. Shri Ajay Krishna Bhattacharjee, and 9, Shri Swagatam Das.
The fifth expedition was organized in the month of September, 1993.
Commencement of trek from road head – Trek start from Gangotri (Uttarkashi District) on 05/9/1993.
Number of camps en route to Base Camp : One transit camp had been established at Bhojbas to reach Base Camp at Thelu Bamak (Raktvaran Glacier – 4527 Mtr.).
7 more camps had been established before reaching summit of Mt. Srikailash due to heavy fresh snowfall. Summit reached by 1. Shri Basanta Singha Roy, 2. Shri Rajbahadur Sahi and Dharamraj on 20/9/1993.
Tharkot (6099 Mtr.) & Bhanoti (5816 Mtr.)
Area : Kumaon Himalaya
Members –
1. Shri Basanta Singha Roy (Leader), 2. Shri Asok Roy (Dy. Leader), 3. Shri Subrata Bhattacharjee, 4. Shri Raju Roy, 5. Shri Nirmal Mukherjee and 6. Shri Swagatam Das.
The sixth expedition was organized in the month of August - September, 1994.
Commencement of trek from road head - trek start from Soang (Bageswar District, Uttarakhand) on 31/8/1994.
Number of camps en route up to Base Camp. Four transit camps had been established to reach Base Camp (Sukhram Cave). First camp at Loharkhet (1750 Mtr.) and stayed at PWD Bunglow, 2nd at Khati (2210 Mtr.) and stayed at PWD Bunglow, third camp at Jatoli Village (2576 Mtr.) and here stayed at Rup Singh’s house (Team’s Guide) and fourth camp at Sundardunga (3200 Mtr.) and here the team stayed at a temporary Hut. Base Camp (3965 Mtr.) reached on 04/9/1994.
Three more camps had been established before reaching summit of Tharkot. Summit reached by 1. Shri Basanta Singha Roy, 2. Shri Raju Roy, 3. Shri Swagatam Das, 4. Shri Rajbahadur Sahi and Shri Rup Singh on 12/9/1994.
Mt. Bhanoti summit reached by 1. Shri Asok Roy, 2. Shri Subrata Bhattacharjee, 3. Shri Nirmal Mukherjee and 4. Shri Rup Singh on 13/9/1994 from the same Camp – I of Tharkot peak.
CB – 11 (6045 Mtr.)
Area : Himachal Himalaya.
Members –
1. Shri Basanta Singha Roy (Leader), 2. Shri Asok Roy (Dy. Leader), 3. Shri Goutam Pal, 4. Shri Raja Roy and Shri Pal.
The seventh expedition was organized in the month of August – September, 1995.
Commencement of trek from road head - trek start from Batal of Kulu District of Himachal Pradesh on 25/8/1995.
Number of camps en route up to Base Camp. One transit camp had been established to reach Base Camp.
One more camp had been established before reaching summit of CB – 11. Summit reached by Shri Basanta Singha Roy, 2. Shri Somdeb Sharma and 3. Shri Tikamram Thakur on 28/7/1995.
Kamet – 7756 Mtr. (Third Highest Peak in India).
Area : Garhwal Himalaya.
Members –
1. Shri Basanta Singha Roy (Leader), 2. Shri Asok Roy (Dy. Leader), 3. Shri Subrata Bhattacharjee, 4. Dr. Partha Protim Roy (Medical Officer), 5. Shri Subhashis Chakraborty, 6. Shri Goutam Pal, 7. Shri Debasish Roy, 8. Ajay Krishna Bhattacharjee, 9. Goutam Pal (Junior), 10. Shri Dipen Samanta and 11. Shri Arupam Das.
The eighth expedition was organized in the month of September – October, 1996.
Commencement of trek from road head – trek started from Malari, Joshimath, Chamoli Distrist of Uttarakhand on 10/9/1996.
Number of camps en route up to Base Camp. Three transit camps had been established before reaching Base Camp.
5 more camps had been established but the team could not reached the summit due to blizzard. The team forced to abandon the expedition. They reached at an altitude of 6860 Mtr. on 3/10/1996.
Kamet – 7756 Mtr. (Third Highest Peak in India).
Area : Garhwal Himalaya.
Members –
1. Shri Basanta Singha Roy (Leader), 2. Shri Asok Roy (Dy. Leader), 3. Shri Subhashis Chakraborty, 4. Shri Tamal Bhattacharjee, 5. Shri Debasish Biswas and 6. Shri Sourav Sinchan Mondal.
The ninth expedition was organized in the month of May – June, 1997.
Commencement of trek from road head – trek started from Malari, Joshimath, Chamoli Distrist of Uttarakhand on 12/5/1997.
Number of camps en route up to Base Camp. Two transit camps had been established before reaching Base Camp.
6 more camps had been established before reaching summit of Mt. Kamet. Summit reached by 1. Shri Basanta Singha Roy, 2. Shri Debasish Biswas, 3. Shri Aung Tenzi Sherpa and 3. Shri Thupka Sherpa on 05/6/1997.
Choukhamba-I (7138 Mtr.)
Area : Garhwal Himalaya
Members –
1. Shri Basanta Singha Roy (Leader), 2. Shri Asok Roy (Dy. Leader), 3. Shri Ajay Krishna Bhattacharjee, 4. Shri Debasish Biswas, 5. Shri Sourav SinchanMondal, 6. Shri TamalBhattacharjee, 7. Shri Swarup Karfa, 8. Shri Bivas Sarkar and 9. Shri Jyotirmoy Sarkar.
The tenth expedition was organized in the month of August – September, 1998.
Commencement of trek from road head – trek started from Mana village, Badrinath, Joshimath, Chamoli Distrist of Uttarakhand on 19/8/1998.
Number of camps en route up to Base Camp. Two transit camps had been established before reaching Base Camp.
4 more camps were established before reaching summit of Mt. Chowkhamba – I. Summit reached by 1. Shri Basanta Singha Roy, 2. Shri Aung Tenzi Sherpa and 3. Shri Thendup Sherpa on 04/9/1998.
Bhrigupanth (6772 Mtr.)
Area : Garhwal Himalaya.
Members –
1. Shri Basanta Singha Roy (Leader), 2. Shri Asok Roy, 3. Shri Ajay Krishna Bhattacharjee, 4. Shri Subhasish Chakraborty, 5. Shri Bivas Sarkar, 6. Shri Chandan Banerjee, 7. Shri Bhupendranath Pal and 8. Shri Swarup Kharfa.
The eleventh expedition was organized in the month of May, 1999.
Commencement of trek from road head – trek started from Gangotri, Uttarkashi District, Uttarakhand on 05/5/1999.
Number of camps en route up to Base Camp. One transit camp had been established between Bhojkharak and Kedarkharak before reaching Base Camp i.e. Kedartal.
4 more camps were established before reaching summit of Mt. Bhrigupanth. Summit reached by 1. Shri Basanta Singha Roy, 2. Shri Swarup Kharfa, 3. Shri Pemba Sherpa and 4. Shri Thendup Sherpa on 20/5/1999.
Nandakot (6861 Mtr.)
Area : Garhwal Himalaya.
Members -
1. Shri Basanta Singha Roy (Leader), 2. Shri Subrata Brahma, 3. Shri Debasish Biswas, 4. Shri Sourav Sinchan Mondal, 5. Shri Jyotirmoy Sarkar, 6. Shri Subhasish Chakraborty and 7. Shri Bivas Sarkar.
The twelfth expedition was organized in the month of October, 2001.
Commencement of trek from road head – trek started from Munsiary, District Pithgarh, Uttarakhand on 07/10/2000.
Number of camps en route up to Base Camp: Five transit camps had been established before reaching Base Camp.
2 more camps had been established to reach summit of Mt. Nandakot. But the team could not reached the summit due to un-favourable condition of snow.
Shiva (6142 Mtr.)
Area : Himachal Himalaya.
Mt. Shiva is situated in the Pangi Valley of Chamba District of Himachal Pradesh. Latitude and longitude of this peak is 76 35’ E and 33 6’ N respectively. The local people regarded this peak as a sacred mountain and often refer to it as Shibji or Kailash.
Only the first Lady Everest Climber, Junko Tawi of Japan climbed this peak in the year 1988. Several attempts were also made but no one could reach the summit after the first ascent.
Team Members :
1. Shri Basanta Singha Roy (Leader), 2. Shri Asok Roy, 3. Shri Subhasis Chakraborty, 4. Shri Ajay Bhattacherjee, 5. Shri Debasis Biswas, 6. Shri Subrata Brahma, 7. Shri Biswanath Saha and 8. Shri Mithun Bhowmick
The thirteenth expedition was organized in the month of August - September, 2002.
Commmence of journey from road head – trek started on 20/8/2002 from Cherry (240 K.M. from Manali - 14 k.m. before Killer, Head Quarter of Pangi Valley), Chamba District.
One transit camp had been established at Parmar village (3200 M) before reaching Base Camp. The team took 5 hours to reach Parmar village from Cherry. They established Base Camp (4000 M) before the snout of south glacier on a flat ground which was covered with knee high grass. The team took 4 hours to reach Base Camp.
3 more camps had been established before reaching summit of Mt. Shiva. Summit reached by 1. Shri Basanta Singha Roy, 2. Shri Debasish Biswas, 3. Shri Sange Sherpa and 4. Shri Dupka Sherpa on 30/8/2002. (First Indian Ascent).
Deotibba (6001 Mtr.)
Area : Himachal Himalaya.
Members -
1. Shri Basanta Singha Roy (Leader), 2. Shri Subrata Brahma , 3. Shri Ajay Krishna Bhattacharjee, 4. Shri Goutam Pal and Shri Rabi Shankar Karmakar.
The fourteenth expedition was organized in the month of September, 2003.
Commencement of trek from road head – trek started on 29/8/2003 from Jagatsukh Village (8 K.M. from Manali), Kullu District, Himachal Pradesh.
Number of camps en route up to Base Camp: Two transit camps had been established i.e. Chikka and Seri (3665 M) before reaching Base Camp.
2 more camps had been established before reaching summit of Mt. Deotibba. Summit reached by 1. Shri Basanta Singha Roy and 2. Shri Thupka Sherpa on 18/9/2003.
Indrasan (6221 Mtr.)
Area : Himachal Himalaya.
Members -
1. Shri Basanta Singha Roy (Leader), 2. Shri Subrata Brahma, 3. Shri Asim Mondal and 4.Shri Prasit Biswas.
The fifteenth expedition was organized in the month of August, 2004.
Commencement of trek from /road head – trek started on 19/8/2004 from Jagatsukh Village (8 K.M. from Manali), Kullu District, Himachal Pradesh.
Number of camps en route up to Base Camp: Two transit camps had been established i.e Khanol and Seri (3665 M) before reaching Base Camp.
3 More camps were established before reaching summit of Mt. Indrasan. Summit reached by 1. Shri Basanta Singha Roy, 2. Shri Thupka Thsring Sherpa, 3. Shri Pemba Sherpa and 4. Shri Sange Sherpa on 30/8/2004. (First Indian Ascent).
Shivling – (6543 Mtr.)
Area : Garhwal Himalaya.
Members –
1. Shri Basanta Singha Roy (Leader), 2. Shri Debasis Biswas (Dy. Leader), 3. Shri Asok Roy, 4. Shri Tapan Roy, 5. Shri Subrata Brahma, 6. Shri Bivas Sarkar, 7. Shri Asim Mondal and 8. Shri Bimalesh Das
The sixteenth expedition was organized in the month of August, 2005.
Commencement of trek from road head – trek started 17/8/2005 from Gangotri, Uttarkashi District, Uttarakhand.
Number of camps en route up to Base Camp. One transit camp had been established at Bhojbas before reaching Base Camp.
3 More camps had been established before reaching summit of Mt. Shivling. Summit reached by 1. Shri Basanta Singha Roy, 2. Shri Debasis Biswas, 3. Shri Pasang Sherpa and 4. Shri Pemba Sherpa on 30/8/2005.
Panwalidwar (6663 Mtr.)
Area : Kumaon Himalaya.
Members _
1. Shri Debasis Biswas (Leader), 2. Shri Basanta Singha Roy ( Dy. Leader), 3. Shri Ajay Krishna Bhattacharjee, 4. Shri Tapan Roy, 5. Shri Subrata Brahma, 6. Shri Buddhadeb Haldar, 7. Shri Bijay Sarkar, 8. Shri Supriyo Chitra and 9. Shri Souvik Sarkar.
The seventh expedition was organized in the month of August, 2006.
Commencement of trek from road head – trek started from Soang on 08/8/2006 from road head Song, Bageswar, Uttarakhand.
Number of camps en route up to Base Camp. Three transit camp had been established at Loharkhet (1750 M) on 08/08/2006, Khati (2210 M) on 09/08/2006 and Dwali (2734 M) on 10/08/2006 before reaching Base Camp (4120 Mtr.)
3 More camps had been established before reaching summit of Mt. Panwalidwar. Summit reached by 1. Shri Basanta Singha Roy, 2. Shri Debasis Biswas, 3. Shri Pasang Sherpa and 4. Shri Pemba Sherpa on 22/8/2006.
Rubalkang (6187 Mtr.)
Area : Himachal Himalaya.
It was a joint venture of Kewkradong of Bangladesh and Mountaineers’ Association of Krishnanagar of India.
The team members of Moountaineers’ Association of Krishnagar, West Bengal are – 1. Shri Basanta Singha Roy (Leader), 2. Shri Asok Roy, 3. Shri Ajay Krishna Bhattacharjee, 4. Shri Tapan Roy, 5. Shri Subrata Brahma, 6. Shri Buddhadeb Haldar, 7. Shri Shri Supriyo Chitra 8. Shri Biswanath Saha, 9. Shri Sourav Sinchan Mondal and 10. Dr. Sanjib Raha.
The team members of Kewkradong, Dhaka, Banglesh are - 1. SM. Muntasir Mamun, 2. H. Md. Shirajul Haq, 3. Saad Bin Hossain and 4. Md. Ataur Rahman Khan.
Liaison Officer : Shri Debasish Biswas.
The eighteenth expedition was organized in the month of May, 2007.
Commencement of trek from road head – trek started from Barseni, Kulu District on 20/5/1007.
Number of camps en route up to Base Camp. Three transit camps had been established at Khirganga (1750 M) on 21/5/2007, Tundabhuj (2210 M) on 22/5/2007 and Thakurkuon (2734 M) on 23/5/2007 before reaching Base Camp (4120 Mtr.)
3 More camps had been established before reaching summit of Mt. Rubalkang. Summit reached by 1. Shri Basanta Singha Roy, 2. Shri Biswanath Saha, 3. Shri Muntasir Mamun, 4. Shri Shirajul Haq, 5. Shri Saad Bin Hussain, 6. Shri Thendup Sherpa and 7. Shri Pema Sherpa on 30/5/2007.
Again 1. Shri Debasish Biswas, 2. Shri Ajay Krishna Bhattacharjee, 3. Shri Sourav Sinchan Mondal, 4. Shri Subrata Brahma, 5. Shri Buddhadeb Haldar, 6. Shri Thendup Sherpa and 7. Shri Pema Sherpa reached the summit on 31/5/2007.
Thalay Sagar (6904 Mtr.)
Area : Garhwal Himalaya
Members –
1. Shri Basanta Singha Roy (Leader), 2. Shri Asok Roy, 3. Shri Ajay Krishna Bhattacharjee, 4. Shri Tapan Roy, 5. Shri Subrata Brahma, 6. Shri Biswanath Saha, 7. Shri Asim Kumar Mondal and 8. Shri Ranjan Kumar and 9. Shri Bijoy Kanti Sarkar.
The nineteenth expedition was organized in the month of August – September, 2008.
Commencement of trek from road head – trek started 15/8/2008 from Gangotri, Uttarkashi District, Uttarakhand.
Number of camps en route up to Base Camp. One transit camp had been established in between Bhojkharak and Kedarkharak before reaching Base Camp i.e. Kedartal.
3 More camps had been established before reaching summit of Mt. Thalay Sagar. Summit reached by 1. Shri Basanta Singha Roy, 2. Shri Pasang Sherpa, 3. Shri Pemba Sherpa and 4. Shri Phurba Gyalgen on 01/9/2008. (This was first Indian ascent).
Changuch (6322 Mtr.)
Area : Kumaon Himalaya
Members –
1. Shri Basanta Singha Roy (Leader), 2. Shri Sanjib Chakraborty, 3. Shri Ajay Krishna Bhattacharjee, 4. Shri Subrata Brahma, 5. Shri Asim Kumar Mondal, 6. Shri Supriyo Chitra, 7. Shri Bejoy Kanti Sarkar.
The twentieth expedition was organised in the month of August - September, 2009. Commencement of trek from road head - trek started on 18/8/2009 from Song, Bageswar District of Uttarakhand.
3 transit camps established at Loharkhet, Khati & Phurkia before reaching Base Camp at Martoli Kharak (Beside Pindari '0' Point).
4 More camps had been established. Summit was not possible due to climbing difficulties. Then 4 member and 4 Sherpa crossed Traill's Pass on 30/8/2009. Members are :1. Basanta Singha Roy, 2. Sanjib Chakraborty, 3. Subrata Brahma and 4. Asim Kumar Mondal. Sherpas are Pasang Sherpa, Pemba Sherpa, Phurba Sherpa and Lilabati Rai (Cook).
Total Cost for the Expedition: Rs.42 lacs. Of which 40% contributed by members of the Association and the rest has come from YSD, Govt. of West Bengal, Well-wishers, Sponsors and donation. Now we have a debt of Rs.12 lacs.
Help & Sponsors: Sports & Youth Services Dept. Govt.of West Bengal, Punjab National Bank, Climbing World - Ahmedabad and many other organizations and well-wishers.
Administrative Arrangement by: Loben Expeditions, Kathmandu. (Permit jointly with Asian Trek – Expedition Name – “ECO Everest Expedition, 2010”. The group was headed by Legendary Mountaineer -Mr. Apa Sherpa who summitted Everest 20th times this year).
Sherpa: Pasang Phutar Sherpa (2 times Everest Summitter) and Pemba Sherpa (6 times Everest Summitter)
Name of the Participants: Basanta Singha Roy (Leader – Climbing Member), Debasish Biswas (Climbing Member), Asok Roy (Base Camp Member), Sourav Sinchan Mandal (Base Camp Member) and Bivas Sarkar (Base Camp Member).
The team left Kolkata by air on 1st April, 2010. Though the plan to organize the expedition through North Col (Tibet, China) side but just 2 days before our departure for mountain Chinese authorities refused to give us visa. Then we have no other alternative but to proceed through Nepal side. For this reason we have to pay an extra amount of Rs.7 lac to the agency because Nepal Govt. charged more amount than China Govt. Our agency Loben Expeditions, Kathmandu tried hard and managed to make a permit jointly with Asian Trek. We started from Kathmandu on 5th April, 2010 by air and reached Lukla. On 6th April, 2010 we started our trek for Everest Base Camp. We stayed at Namchebazar for 3 nights so that our Base Camp would set up before we reach Base Camp. This is occurred due to switch over from North side to South side. On 14th April – we reached Base Camp (5300 mtr.). On 21st we (2 member and 1 Sherpa) moved to Camp – I (6000 mtr.) crossing the famous Khumbu Icefall. We stayed there and next day we come back to Base Camp. On 26th we again moved to Camp-I. Stayed there and next day we reached Camp – II (6400 mtr.) and stayed 2 nights. On 29th we reached Camp – III (7300 mtr.) and stayed there. Next day we return to Camp – II and stayed there. Next day i.e. 1st May we directly returned to Base Camp. Then we stayed at Base Camp for long time because we were waiting for fair weather that means we were waited for that day when wind speed on the top of Everest will be very low. That date was 16th May (which we received through various sources – Survey through Satellite made by various countries Meteorological Department). We (Basanta Singha Roy, Debasish Biswas, Pemba Sherpa and Pasang Sherpa) moved for summit on 12th May. Directly we reached Camp-II and stayed that camp on 13th also. Then we reached to Camp-III next day. On 15th May morning we moved to Camp-IV (South Col – Summit Camp) using supplementary oxygen. We reached South Col at 3.00 p.m. Our plan was to move for summit on the same night. But we could not proceed due to high speed wind. Many other teams also forced to stay that night on South Col for the same reason. Next day i.e. on 16th May all the climbers moved for summit at 8.00 p.m. All the night we climbed using Head Torch and we (1. Basanta Singha Roy, 2. Debasish Biswas, 3. Pasang Sherpa and 4.Pemba Sherpa) reached the top during a span of one hour from 7.45 a.m. to 8.40 a.m. at that time the weather was clear. We snapped many photographs. Viewed the surroundings and then started to came down at 9.00 a.m. and reached South Col at 1.00 p.m. safely. We were fully exhausted and decided to stay South Col that night and on 18th we reached Camp-II and next day i.e. on 19th we reached Base Camp. We left Base Camp on 22nd and reached Kathmandu on 25th morning on the same route and same mode. We left Kathmandu on 27th and reached Kolkata on the same evening. We feel proud that Hon’ble Minister –in- Charge, Youth Affairs & Sports, Govt. of West Bengal, Shri Kanti Bhusan Gangopadhyay received us at the airport and many others also present there.
Total Cost for the Expedition: Rs.25 lacs.
Help & Sponsors: Youth Services Department, Govt.of West Bengal and many other organizations and well-wishers. Administrative Arrangement by: Loben Expeditions, Kathmandu. (Permit jointly with French Kanchenjunga 2011 SPR led by Mr. Ludovic Paul Nicolas Challeat of France & Asstt. Leader -Basanta Singha Roy).
Sherpa: Pasang Futar Sherpa, Pemba Chuti Sherpa & Ang Tashi Sherpa (three brother) from Darjeeling.
Name of the Participants: Basanta Singha Roy & Debasish Biswas of Mountaineers’ Association of Krishnanagar, West Bengal, India.
We left Kolkata by Darjeeling Mail on 28th March, 2011 and next morning we reached New Jalpaiguri. Members of Himalayan Nature & Adventure Foundation, Siliguri received us at New Jalpaiguri Station. Later we met with Pasang Futar Sherpa who came from Darjeeling to accompany us and after a brief Press Meet at Siliguri we proceeded for Kakarvita (border of Nepal & India) by Car. Members of Mountaineers’ Association of Krishnanagar - Asok Roy, Sourav Sinchan Mandal & Tarak Sen also accompanied us up to Kakarvita. At Kakarvita, Pemba Chuti Sherpa was waiting for us. He came from Kathmandu after arranging all expedition works like permit, equipment, oxygen etc. and marketing. Other expedition crews already proceeded towards Medibung (road head). We started from Kakarviata by Car for Medibung via Illam and Phidim. Members of MAK went back to Krishnagar. We reached Illam in the evening and then proceed for Medibung by a Jeep which was waiting for us with our ration and equipments. We were forced to stay at Phidim as the Driver refused to proceed further at night. On 30th March we again moved on for Medibung early in the morning and though the road condition was not good, we reached Medibung within 6.30 a.m. (we started from Phidim at 3.30 a.m.). Here we met with our kitchen staff - Lilabati Rai (Cook), Dawa Sherpa (Kitchen Boy) and 2 other teenage boy Norbu and Ashram who will assist us up to Base Camp. Porters had already reached there from Taplejung but not as per our requirement. So most of the Porters had to carry double load (admissible 25 kg). We started trekking at 9.30 a.m. and reached Amedin village at 3.00 p.m. We stayed there in a school. Due to heavy load, Porters came very late. The route is very beautiful but with sharp ups and downs here and there. Next day we proceeded for Khewang. The route is steep but very nice. Today also we reached Khewang late due to slow going of Porters. Here we stayed in a house because there was no lodge. This village is very beautiful, rich and clean. Next day i.e. on 1st April we started climbing and reached Ekchana La (2080 M) and descended to Otam and again climb second pass and then descended to Yamphudin. The check post of Kanchenjunga Conservation Area is here and we paid NR.500 as entry fee as we are SAARC country citizen. Again we started climbing up to the Sherpa village at Yamphudin. We stayed here at Tsring Sherpa’s house (Yamphudin Guest House). He is also our Porter Agent. During the entire expedition period food was made by our kitchen staff. Only here we got telephone facilities in the whole route but it is very costly (NR 100 per minute). 2nd April, some Porters refused to carry loads further and they returned. Then we decided to carry loads part by part. That day we started trekking early in the morning and after one hour trek we started climbing a steep hill through dense forest and reached Lashethang (3330 M). The scenic beauty of this route is very beautiful due to colourful rhododendrons and butterfly. One Sherpa family temporarily stays here and one can get shelter in their small lodge. But today our target is to stay at Torondin. Due to huge land slide we were forced to bypass this land slide area and then descended on a muddy trail and reached Torondin. There are only two Sherpa houses and we took shelter in one of them. We stayed there for 2 days because porters could not reach Torondin and they stayed at Lashethang. At night heavy snowing started. Next day i.e. on 4th we reached Tseram in fair weather. The route is very beautiful and along a river. There also we stayed at Tshring’s lodge. It was too cold there. We stayed there for 3 nights. From here, a route goes to Sikkim crossing Khang La and another route from here goes to Sinelapcha La (4580 M). One Russian team came here crossing this pass. When we stayed at Tseram, our Met (Porter Leader), K.B. Lama (elder brother of our Porter agent Tsring Sherpa) died at Ramche. On 5th April he moved to Ramche with some of our Porter. But on 6th morning he expired. At that time he was in a Tent with his nephew. Luckily on that day a French team came there by Helicopter. The body of Late Lama was rescued by that Helicopter. Next day i.e. 7th morning we left Tseram. In the meantime most of our loads reached at Ramche. Our Sherpas also ferried loads. The route is covered with fresh snow towards north and very beautiful. We viewed Kokthang, Rathong & Kabru group of peaks. Trees already vanished as we reached the higher altitude. It is small trek. Only one house is there so we pitched Tents. This place is situated on a very vast beautiful meadow surrounded by Yalung Glacier and high mountains. We spent 4 nights there. This place is also very cold. One day we visited along Yalung Glacier towards north and viewed for the first time our targeted peak Mt. Kanchenjunga. Took photographs and returned to Ramche. On 11th morning we proceeded towards north. First 2 hours i.e. up to Okthang, we got nice trail and then descended to Yalung Glacier to avoid rock fall zone. We used fixed rope when descending. Then there was no trail and it is very tiresome due to glacial walk. We stayed here also in Tents. We named it ‘Deposit Camp’. Here also we stayed for 2 nights. Porters and Sherpas made ferry to Base Camp. On 13th we trekked through moraine and then through moraine ridge. At last we climbed a big slope and reached Base Camp (5500 M). Just before reaching Base Camp we used fixed rope at one place. The Base Camp is situated on full of big boulders and there is no flat place but the scenic beauty of this area is very charming. We pitched our Tents on a readymade place. We took 15 days to reach Base Camp where only 10 days is considered to be sufficient. 14th to 16th April – On these days we make our Dining Tent, Kitchen Tent, Temple and took rest . Norbu and Ashram left Base Camp for their home. On 17th we proceeded towards Camp-1 for some practice. After crossing Base Camp we entered in the glacier and reached at the bottom of the face. First we climbed a rock with the help of Jumar and then continue climbing over snow using fixed rope. A Russian team already had fixed rope up to Camp-1. Then we came down after reaching half of this route. On 18th we performed Puja for our success and safe return. On 19th, Pasang, Pemba and Tashi ferried loads to Camp-1. On 20th, myself, Debasish, Pasang, Pemba & Tashi started climbing for Camp-1. First we entered in to the glacier and then we continued climbing on the face then we traversed to the left and reached at the bottom of a steep slope. The last portion of this slope is the steepest which is around 70o. Just above this serac, Camp-1 is situated on a snowy ridge at 6200 M. We pitched Tents there. Other groups also pitched tents in that place. This is a beautiful place. Yalung glacier, Kabru and Janu is clearly visible from here. Pemba and Tashi went back to Base Camp. We took 5 hours to reach Camp-1. On 21st we returned Base Camp within 1 and half hours. From 22nd to 27th – we took rest. On these days Sherpas ferried loads to Camp-1 & Camp-2. Every day at Base Came the weather was beautiful in the morning but in the afternoon it usually started snowing a lot. Total 3 groups came to climb Mt. Kanchenjunga through this route. One Russian group comprising 9 members, One International group comprising 13 members (Mingma Sherpa was the leader of this group who himself will climb his last fourteen 8000 M peak Mt. Kanchenjunga) and the third group is French (in which we, ourselves are 2 member, the French are 6 members, 2 Swiss members and 3 other members comprising various countries) that means total 35 members. We are lucky because last year only 3 members from South Korea came to climb Mt. Kanchenjunga in this route during this season. We planned to spend 4 nights in higher camps before our summit approach - at Camp-2 (3 nights) & Camp-3 (1 night) for acclimatization and then to return back to Base Camp. So on 28th we proceeded to Camp-2. Today we took 4 hours to reach Camp-1. But could not proceed further due to bad weather. We stayed at Camp-1. Next day we proceeded for Camp-2. First we climbed a steep wall and reached on a horizontal ridge. Then we walked on this ridge for about 100 M and then climbed down and after traversing we reached a big plateau. After crossing this plateau towards north we were gradually gaining height and established our Camp-2 at an altitude of 6400 M. Next day we took rest at Camp-2. On 1st May we got ready to move towards Camp-3. Weather was charming. Suddenly weather forecast declared that very soon weather will deteriorate so that we decided to go back to Base Camp instead Camp-3. We took 3 and half hours to return Base Camp. From 2nd May to 12th May we took rest at Base Camp. In this period our Sherpas ferried loads up to Camp-3 and also they participated the rope fixing along with other Sherpas. At last our Agency, Loben Expeditions and also other teams informed that weather will be good for summit on 16th that means a weather window is confirmed for 13th to 18th. So we planned leaving Base Camp on 13th and climb directly to Camp-2. All other climbers also decided to follow the same routine. On 13th morning myself, Debasish and Pasang left Base Camp in fine weather. We took long time to reach Camp-1 due to high number of climbers and Sherpas. And then we reached Camp-2. We were fully exhausted due extremely heat and there was no wind. Most of the time the temperature during this expedition varies in between -15o to +40o in one day. In the evening we got latest weather forecast that told the updated weather window will be from 14th to 19th. So we changed our plan and decided to start our summit on 17th. We decided to stay one day more at Camp-3. In the meantime Camp-3 was established and some of our loads were deposited near Camp-4. The Russians and French team had already reached Camp-4 long before. On 14th we started climbing the big face which is full of serac. We were gradually gaining height using fixed rope. In one place we faced a big crevasse which was connected with a snow bridge previously. But now the bridge is broken. Today Pemba and Tashi will join us directly from Base Camp. Soon we faced the crevasse but our Sherpas fixed an aluminum Ladder on the crevasse. Then we again started climbing and faced a big serac. Rope was already fixed by Sherpas and we climbed this serac and reached Camp-3 (7000 M). Camp-3 was established under a big ice wall. We spent 2 nights in this camp. Sherpas ferried loads to Camp-4. On 16th we left Camp-3. Weather was good. Our Sherpas could not move fast due to knee deep soft snow. Myself and Debasish started using oxygen from today. So we started climbing comfortably. We took long time to reach Camp-4 (7600 M). Camp-4 was established on the great shelf. Again weather forecast changed. We decided to make our summit approach on 18th. We spent 3 nights leisurely in the Tent. On 18th, Pemba along with other Sherpa fixed rope on the colouir up to 8000 M. At 6.00 p.m. we started our summit attempt in a fair weather. But after half an hour climbing suddenly weather deteriorated and we were forced to come back. On 19th we again started our summit journey at 5.00 p.m. Other team also started their summit attempt. Weather was very good. There was no wind. On the previous day some Russian & French climbers summitted Mt. Kanchenjunga.. Gradually we proceeded through the couloirs using fixed rope. Later there was no fixed rope. Snow condition was favourable. Then we turned right and started climbing a rock wall. Gradually the night ended and morning sun started glittering over the Kabru peak. We were exhausted but continued our climbing over the mixed rock and ice wall using old fixed rope. At the end we faced a chimney and climbed down using rope. We met here with Mingma Sherpa, who completed his last 14 8000 M peak just 30 minutes before. I congratulated him. Again we started climbing and reached the snowy top of Mt. Kanchenjunga (Main) at 7.30 a.m... We took photographs, performed Puja. We spent 1 and half hours on the top of Mt. Kanchenjunga. Pasang came late. Then we started our return journey from summit. We decided to come down steadily and cautiously using belay rope where necessary. At 8.30 p.m. we reached summit camp safely. Next day i.e. on 21st we reached Camp-2 and on 22nd we reached Base Camp. On 24th we left Base Camp and spent night at Ramche. Next day we reached Lashethang and next day we reached Khewang. On 27th we reached Pashupatinagar via Medibung by Car. We reached Kolkata on 29th May, 2011 morning by train via Siliguri.